List all topics --> Classic Boat Forum --> Wood work stains
 | | Ben
24 November 2005 16:01:11 |
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Joined: November 2005
Posts: 6
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Wood work stains
I have problems with my varnish and black watermarks are ruining the work I have done. Any help much appreciated.
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 | | SeaWeed
06 January 2006 13:34:55 |
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Joined: November 2005
Posts: 7
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Re: Wood work stains
Firstly, make sure you are using a good brush.
Dip the brush into the varnish to about half way up the bristles. Then hold the brush for a moment letting it drain.
Smoothly brush on the varnish, overlapping your brush strokes.
You need to make sure the varnish is not too thick or too thin. If it's too thick, you'll get brush marks and streaks where the strokes overlap. If the varnish is too thin, you're likely to get the running you talk about.
You may want to practice the brushing technique on an old bit of wood until you get it right.
Hope that helps.
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Varnishman
09 February 2006 21:54:21 |
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Joined: February 2006
Posts: 2
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Re: Wood work stains
You dont say how long after application the black marks appear or what type of wood you are covering.
However it is always difficult for non professionals to apply modern varnishes and get a good finish. Any weakness in preparation and lack of experience in application techniques show badly.
There is a simple solution, dont use modern varnishes which are manufactured using petrochemicals and solvents
I would strongly recommend you try Le Tonkinois Varnish.
It is far easier to get a good long lasting result.
This varnish is manufactured using traditional methods and contains Linseed Oil and Tung oil,. Not only does this give a fantastic finish, (all the brush marks will disappear as it dries), it doesn't raise the grain, so does not require sanding back between coats. The only maintenance required is a very light sanding every 2 or 3 years & then apply a further coat.
If you look at WWW.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk that will tell you more about it.
Good luck
Brian
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| | Ben
09 February 2006 22:31:24 |
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Joined: November 2005
Posts: 6
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Re: Wood work stains
The wood is oak in the galley (trim around sink) and teak elsewhere.
The black marks are appearing over a period of about 2 years. I was considering bleaching the wood somehow - to get rid of the black water marks before re-varnishing.
Do you know of any wood bleaching products? Or is this a bad idea?
Many thanks for the tips on varnishing the boat - much appreciated.
Ben
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Varnishman
22 February 2006 19:22:48 |
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Joined: February 2006
Posts: 2
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Re: Wood work stains
Oak & Teak have always been a problem to varnish.
The black stains in oak are due to moisture getting through the varnish. The water causes the iron in the oak to oxidize leaving black marks. This is exasperated by the fact that oak expands & contracts, which causes modern varnishes to crack.
Teak on the other hand, is naturally a very oily wood, which tends to reject modern solvent based varnishes.
Both of these timbers can be varnished very successfully using Le Tonkinois varnish, Because this varnish stays flexible, it allows the timber to expand and contract without cracking . As it is a traditional, oil based varnish, it is not affected by the oil in the teak
But remember, if you are using Le Tonkinois Varnish on any oily wood, always wash the surface first with white spirit, to remove any surface oil, this will allow the varnish to penetrate deep into the timber & bond with the oil below the surface.
Regarding bleaching the stains.
If the stains are on the teak, you can use an oxalic acid based wood cleaner, (available from most boat chandlers or from the suppliers of Le Tonkinois Varnish). It raises the grain so you may need to sand before varnishing This gives excellent results on teak. I have not tried it on oak but this is an extract from a contributor to one of the other boat forums about the wood cleaner.
?Scrub on with a hard brush and work well into the grain. leave about I hr then wash off. Lots of fresh water.
No it does not go on bleaching after you have rinsed well
Works on all woods and does not harm copper nails
Removes black stains
Brightens up the wood by bleaching out the stains?
If you can, it would be better to sand the wood down to remove the stains, then apply the varnish to the bare wood
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Anonymous user
13 April 2006 12:16:55 |
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Re: Wood work stains
Bleaching wood
If you use wood bleach, be sure not to let it dry out on the wood, keep applying it till you get the results your after. Wash with plenty of water leave to dry 1-2 days to be sure no water is left in the wood, light sand will be needed
I have used wood bleach on oak and mahogany very successfully for years. I have then used LeTonkinois varnish, this also works well, but you do have to use quite a few coats. I finish it off with a light sand using 1200 grit you can use wire wool 00 grade then the last coat of Le Tonkins. You will get a very high shine like this.
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| | Ben
13 April 2006 12:43:13 |
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Joined: November 2005
Posts: 6
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Re: Wood work stains
Thank you very much!
I will try this and tell you how we get on.
We want the rich lavish look for the oak (its only around five years old) this will do the trick i hope!!
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Anonymous user
25 April 2006 19:46:22 |
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Re: Wood work stains
Yes, I stand by oxcalic acid used as you describe. However, I am now having trouble getting supplies. Small tubs of crystals have always been available before, but not now. Any ideas ?
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Anonymous user
18 May 2006 14:16:59 |
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Re: Wood work stains
YOU STAR!!!!!
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Anonymous user
16 November 2006 18:31:06 |
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Re: Wood work stains
I had black stains around the bungs in my wood boat.
strip it, bleach it, dry it, re-stain it and go on to sealer and varnish, I used eppifanes.
Good now.
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jmh2929
29 November 2006 13:17:17 |
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Joined: November 2006
Location: Llandissilio, United Kingdom
Posts: 7
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Re: Wood work stains
I use oxalic and get it in 500g packs from my chemist. No problem at all and under a fiver.
JMH
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Anonymous user
19 February 2007 11:10:45 |
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Re: Wood work stains
Hi all,
I have just bought 8 teak chairs from our local car boot sale. We bought them very cheaply as they all have black ink stains on them. The seller said that they came wrapped in a type of recycles carton and that got wet. In turn, the ink from the carton got soaked onto the teak causing the black stains. We tried sanding the areas with 120 grade sandpaper but it only made it slightly better, but the stains are still clearly there. Would you recommend any of the above methods to remove the ink stains? is it at all possible?
Would really appreciate any of your advice,
Naomi.
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Anonymous user
11 April 2007 17:11:33 |
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Re: Wood work stains
The black marks are stains from water within the weood leaking out over time.
I had that problem. I removed all material down to bare wood. Thgen bleached the wood twice and restained. make sure the wood is dried out before you re stain.
Art
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Anonymous user
01 July 2007 16:17:09 |
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Wood work stains on boats
Don’t you have to treat Oak and Teak in a different manner as they have different properties?
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Anonymous user
25 July 2008 11:21:17 |
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Re: Wood work stains
| Varnishman Wrote: | Oak & Teak have always been a problem to varnish.
The black stains in oak are due to moisture getting through the varnish. The water causes the iron in the oak to oxidize leaving black marks. This is exasperated by the fact that oak expands & contracts, which causes modern varnishes to crack.
Teak on the other hand, is naturally a very oily wood, which tends to reject modern solvent based varnishes.
Both of these timbers can be varnished very successfully using Le Tonkinois varnish, Because this varnish stays flexible, it allows the timber to expand and contract without cracking . As it is a traditional, oil based varnish, it is not affected by the oil in the teak
But remember, if you are using Le Tonkinois Varnish on any oily wood, always wash the surface first with white spirit, to remove any surface oil, this will allow the varnish to penetrate deep into the timber & bond with the oil below the surface.
Regarding bleaching the stains.
If the stains are on the teak, you can use an oxalic acid based wood cleaner, (available from most boat chandlers or from the suppliers of Le Tonkinois Varnish). It raises the grain so you may need to sand before varnishing This gives excellent results on teak. I have not tried it on oak but this is an extract from a contributor to one of the other boat forums about the wood cleaner.
?Scrub on with a hard brush and work well into the grain. leave about I hr then wash off. Lots of fresh water.
No it does not go on bleaching after you have rinsed well
Works on all woods and does not harm copper nails
Removes black stains
Brightens up the wood by bleaching out the stains?
If you can, it would be better to sand the wood down to remove the stains, then apply the varnish to the bare wood |
Fantastic!
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